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Fly Pics


SnoWolf
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No, thank you. It was your posts on photography that got me inspired. I have always had a thing for photography and have been enjoying playing around with my camera. I'm thinking about going threw my pictures and making a slide show as I have a fair amount of accidental awesome pics...

 

Think this birthday may be the year I get a DSLR...

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No, thank you. It was your posts on photography that got me inspired. I have always had a thing for photography and have been enjoying playing around with my camera. I'm thinking about going threw my pictures and making a slide show as I have a fair amount of accidental awesome pics...

 

Think this birthday may be the year I get a DSLR...

 

Fairly easy to do isnt it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

All of these exept the last one where taken with my Pentax W30 water proof camera.

 

I now have a power shot S95 that im playing with and so far its great..

 

Thankfully a good portion of what I have been tying is for lakes so I dont have to carry them all day.....;)

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Jim:

You've made great strides in taking macro photos.

The lighting is terriffic.

I have one tip to help increase your depth of field.

Use as small a lens opening as you can.

This may requie more light or a tripod and a much slower shutter speed.

F22 would be about the lower limit though or diffraction effects may start to show.

You may want to try focus on the part of the fly closest to the camera and see if the furtherst part of the fly is still on focus

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Lol. Thx Dennis.

 

Thx Dave. I like the artsy look some of the flies have with some parts being out of focus. However I was playing with it trying to get focus front to back and it did start to defract (white halo around edges). I think I understand why now so j will try again only I will open it up more each time till I find the sweet spot...;)

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In general, the smaller the lens opening, the greater the depth of field.

If you get too small, then diffraction effects start to appear. This typically shows up as loss of contrast, (not halos).

Halos may be due to internal lens reflections or reflections off bright objects in the field of view (shiny hooks?)

Focusing so the nearest part of the object is just in focus will have the depth of field extend from there away from the camera.

If the back of the object is out of focus then you'll have to compromize by focusing further from the camera.

Opening the lens up will make the depth of field shallower

Try using a manual exposure and lengthen the exposure time. Anything over about 1/100 sec will need a tripod

You could aslo try increasing the ISO if your camera lets you adjust that.

Just be careful of very high ISO settings as they can increase noise in the image

Edited by dave robinson
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I thought what you where saying about the F22 contradicted what I had been reading so far. I went back and read through it again and you are of course right. I interpreted the F22 as being more for long distance and the small numbers as being for closer. All of this is correct but the part my mind failed to put together is that with the subject being approximately 8" from the lense that this would move the depth of field in closer but the principles in the way the aperture is set remain the same. I know there is tons more to it but I'm hoping I have this part figured...

 

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