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Trout Unlimited Canada - Northern Lights Fly Fishers

Kristi

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Kristi last won the day on May 12 2018

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About Kristi

  • Rank
    Executive: Membership

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Edmonton
  • Interests
    FLY FISHING & FLY TYING, Motorcycles, Camping, Fly Tying, Vehicles oh did I mention fly fishing and fly tying lol and many other interests. Just ask...
  1. I'm still planning on coming out, bringing a friend and ditching the family altogether LOL. So how does this work??? .. I've been invited many times.. and never took up on it due to other outings to other provinces.. Is it an instance, where I come but, I look after myself and only myself or is it a community effort we all chip and we all work to make it great. I'm asking in advance so I can get planning and so I can separate my camp gear before my (DAD) family takes what (he) they need for three weeks in the back woods of BC! Please can someone give me details and some insight, thanks in advance. Kristi Kinoshita
  2. That is awesome to see! Great Job Club volunteers!
  3. I'm so sorry Dan to hear that it's happened to you, to close for comfort in my opinion... :excl: Be Aware this has happened in several places both prominent and discreet locations, and this is not the first time either. :excl: :excl: People are brazen enough to hit up vehicles at weekend getaway lakes too.
  4. Thank you Karen!, I could use better lighting, this I know. I like my effect I created it suited my mood as I tied the oil bug. Mysterious and late at night lol :-P
  5. Hook - #6 2xl streamer Thread - 6/0 or 8/0 colour doesn't matter (​I used 6/0 Onyx) Bead - 5/32" gold (I used 5/32'' Disco Bead Gold)Tail - UV kingfisher blue marabouBody - glo-brite chenille flo-red (​I used Chrystal chenille Fire Orange)Hackle - orange grizzly Hen Hackle (longer fibers than rooster hackle) ​Add bead, pinch barb, mount hook ​dress hook add marabou (tail) ​(I probably added less than I actually should or could have added for the tail) Lay hackle down on secured marabou, Tie in hackle just at the tip point of the hook secure the hackle with serval tight wraps and cut the hackle tip off. ​tie in chenille (to build the body where the marabou narrows on the hook I double wrap the chenille to create a torpedo like body, you will see in the next picture the shape I am talking about) ​Wrap chenille Lock chenille (​see the shape of the chenille body ... thicker behind the bead head...!!!) ​Wrap hackle Lock hackle (over time I have made my own habits and techniques and my flies may not look like yours or that of anyone else's and that's ok for them to be different! Can you see a difference between my fly and yours already? ) Tie head and whip finish Happy tying and I'd love to see your flies!!! Send me a picture of your fly and the recipe you followed and you will be entered into a draw to win some SWAG it could be anything from a fly box to a t- shirt a cap or a buff a couple stickers who knows but its swag we all like swag, free stuff you can't go wrong there... email me at http://members@nlft.org
  6. Kristi

    Outboard

    homie on a bike that's a HOLY beauty motor where did you get that? wait huh Ducks, I like Duck poo-poo Umbridge toenail Bear with me fellas and ladies.. I was showing my daughter the No-no list of words lol and we clearly got carried away! OH and Ken I made you happy salad brownies and check the new list of the bad words it had a face lift haha
  7. Kristi

    By Now....

    On a side note I recommend tying in seven's. (Seven, is a lucky number because our muscles and our brains retain the movements and instructions by the time we do something seven times over) Tie seven of each size hook that is comfortable for you to use but no more than three different sizes of hooks. I know it sounds like a lot and so confusing but I'll explain ... **This is the practice that I mentioned in the above post, and trust me it gets boring really, really, boring tying an entire pack of 50/count size #8 hooks, I did this DO NOT DO THIS lol ** For example: I will tie seven hooks in size #6, seven hooks in size #8 and seven hooks in size #10 and in each different hook size I will use different colors of Thread, Marabou, Chenille and Hackle. ​Streamer Hook: #6-2xl ​Thread: Onyx 6/0 ​Tail: Onyx Marabou Hackle: Olive Grizzly ​Chenille: Onyx - [ Always wrap your chenille right after you secure the marabou ​Here is an alternative I tied (it's a size #6-2xl) to the first one we tied together my hackle is tied in tip first rather than butt end (and before the chenille rather than after) see the difference with the shape of the hackle? the shape of the hackle is not a lot but you can see a little difference but sometimes we can really see a visible difference in some cases. Now does chenille go first or hackle go first when it comes to being tied in.. well to me it does not matter but sometimes I like my hackle tied in (not wrapped) under my chenille so it doesn't pop out. "a just in case" extra move for me that I like doing especially if I know I'm going to be hitting some rough waters. I kept this very basic and simple only because I have all the detail in the post above. ​Mount hook ​Dress Hook ​Add Marabou ​Add Hackle, this time I am tying in hackle before chenille and tip first. ​Add Chenille ​Wrap Chenille, always wrap chenille right after marabou is secured onto the hook unless you are following another pattern lock chenille ​Wrap Hackle lock hackle ​Make Head, Whip Finish and cut thread ​Have fun practicing and don't sweat the small stuff like I said just mount another hook and move on! soon you'll be sailing through the woolly bugger pattern and ready to move on to a another more complicated style of the woolly bugger!
  8. Kristi

    By Now....

    ​ Hello It's Kristi here!! Ok by now I'm assuming... Everyone has had an opportunity to gather tools, supplies and materials ... ( we don't need anything too fancy! ) I'm also assuming that we all have tried playing with our tools and materials and looking on YouTube for videos and/or at books on where and how to start. And assuming that you all have been waiting patiently for me to get rollin' on this topic. So I apologize for being sooooo late. ​Last I spoke about the BASIC materials we will need to tie a Woolly Bugger. This pattern is great to use in the spring months and fall months. DID YOU KNOW that there are several ways to spell wholly bugger.. You’ll see me use different spellings, that or I can't spell LOL Gather your materials and tools, and let’s get started. For this pattern we will need: · Streamer Hook: 3XL-4XL sizes #2-#14 ​​ · Thread: 3/0 or 6/0 - [ match colour to body · Tail: Long Marabou, the colours you use is up to you any colours are allowed!! but I generally recommend sticking with reds, burgundy’s, onyx, olives, browns your earthy natural colors.- [ I will use an onyx (black) · ​Body: Large chenille, colour of your choice -[ I am using burgundy and or wine Crystal Chenille · Hackle: Wet fly saddle hackle - [ I will match my tail using onyx​ ***NOTE*** I WILL ALWAYS LIST THE MATERIALS IN ORDER OF THE WAY THEY NEED TO BE used and or TIED IN. And as you advance you will find your own way that works for you. ​ Thank you to Michael Dell for taking lots of pictures as I tied. I posted pictures in each step! There are more pictures to refer to after the detailed step by step instructions and all these pictures will coincide with all the steps mentioned in this article below of how to tie a Wholly Bugger. HAPPY TYING!! 1. Mounting your hook: in the vice is simple.. Pinch barb first with flat needle nose pliers. Keep the shank horizontal, and or parallel to the table. Clamp firmly. The eye of the hook should not be any higher or lower than the shank itself. ***Larger hooks take more vise grip than smaller hooks so you'll have to play around with the tension of your vise. *** don’t worry if your eye is offset to the shank of the hook in design. We will talk about down eye, up eye or straight eye hooks later. *** DO NOT hide the hook point in the jaws of your vise as this can weaken the hook and result in lost fish upon the setting of the hook. You don't want to Lose the "BIG ONE" because you didn't secure your hook correctly*** you may want to pre pinch your barb before mounting the hook into your vise. This can be easier than pinching while set in the vise. 2. D​ressing the hook: takes some practice and all it is, is this: pre-wrapping the shank with some thread. (this holds our materials in place securely) Hold your bobbin in your R hand (bobbin hand) and the tag in your L hand (tag hand). TAG: loose end of thread. Take your L hand with tag and place it behind the hook, just behind the eye. Holding the tag close to shank on the backside of the hook, keep your R hand/bobbin hand in front of hook and wrap the bobbin away from you while holding the tag end. Be sure to advance the thread towards the bend of the hook, catching the tag end in under your wraps. (always wrapping away from you) continue over the tag keeping the tag in your left hand secure; wrap the bobbin away covering the tag until you no longer can hold it, or until your dressing seems secure enough that the thread wraps will not loosely rotate on the hook. Trim tag end. These wraps should be nicely spaced or touching wraps. (Overlapping will happen when we advance thread forward towards the eye of the hook wrapping away from us, and continue wrapping away from us advancing the thread back to the bend of the hook using your evenly spaced or back to back thread wrap technique.) Again advance the thread back towards the eye of the hook being sure to stop 1/4 of the hook length behind the eye. 3. Adding materials: now that the hook is dressed. "Hooks don't like being naked!!" Select your Marabou feathers and pull them off in a clump from the quill, trim off any firm pieces that may have been left behind. Pinch and hold Marabou in center of clump being sure to lay it in 1/4 (one quarter of the length of the hook shaft away from the eye) away from the eye with the tag hand hold clump against the top of the hook shaft firmly wrap the thread around the Marabou being sure you wrap away from you while advancing the thread down towards the hook bend and around the Marabou, using controlled wraps secure Marabou to hook shank firmly. ( another way to tie this in is by tying the entire stem in ) Next continue wrapping away from you and advance the thread back to the bend of the hook. STOP right at the barb that pointy thing we pinched down earlier... Now; when our bobbin is not in use or at rest it should always hang on the backside of the vise. ( If you ever see your bobbin hanging in front, the thread lying over the hook shank in front of you, not behind the hook shank away from you) you may have wrapped the wrong way! we can discuss this after we have finished.​ 4. Adding materials: now that the marabou is secured we are ready to add Chenille. Select your Chenille and tie it in at the bend of the hook, using the two threads that bind and create the Chenille. (to expose the threads you can remove the Chenille fibers so that you have 1/8th of an inch of string showing) Hold the Chenille at the tie in point and wrap your thread twice around to secure the Chenille in place. 5. Adding materials: now that the chenille is secured we are ready to add the Hackle. ​Select the longest piece of Hackle you can find and tie the butt end of the Hackle into the tie in point wrapping your thread twice firmly leaving your hackle and chenille to rest at the hook bend, ( another way to tie in the hackle is to tie in the tip and we will look at that later in another pattern or variant of the woolly bugger ) before advancing your thread forward towards the eye of the hook, stop at two eye lengths behind the eye. ( for educational reasons I use a 1/3 portion so that the picture directions were clear I also used wide spaced wraps and orange thread for visual contrast) Let your bobbin hang (rest). 6. Putting your fly together: now we can create our amazing fly, this process is fairly simple and straight forward if you follow the directions. Take your Chenille using your bobbin hand wrap the Chenille away from you advancing it toward the eye of the hook firmly but not too strongly wrap the Chenille with touching wraps, stop when you get to where the resting bobbin is. Now transfer the Chenille to the tag hand and pick up the bobbin with your bobbin hand and wrap twice behind the Chenille and twice in front of the Chenille. ( I don't switch my product from my hands now but when I first started I did and I recommend it for the starter as it gives you base skills for other techniques needed later in tying) Doing this locks the Chenille in place and prevents it from unraveling. Let your bobbin rest again. And trim the Chenille as close to the hook shank as possible being sure not to cut the bobbin thread!! Now pick up the Hackle and wind that between the wraps of the chenille, you’ll find that the Hackle will fall into place and be fairly easy to wrap. Again using firm tension but not pulling too hard (we don’t want to break our Hackle off) wrap the Hackle away from you advancing it forward toward the eye of the hook stop where the bobbin is resting. Hold the Hackle in your bobbin hand and pick up your bobbin with your tag hand and wrap the Hackle two times behind, switch your hands so that the Hackle is in your tag hand and the bobbin is in your bobbin hand and wrap two times securely again locking the feather in place. Let the bobbin rest and trim the tip of the Hackle. LOOKING GOOD!!! And we are almost done. 7. Creating the Head of the fly: (for educational and visual reasons I used an oversized hook, and orange thread so you could see clearly what was being done I also purposely used bigger proportions than what is suggested.) Creating the head of the fly is just that... Wrapping the thread away from you building a nicely shaped head in a cone shape. Once this is finished we finish the fly off with a whip finish….. Yes I said whip finish lol 8. Whip Finish: Take your whip finish tool and hold it in your bobbin hand take your bobbin and hold it in your tag hand. Put the whip finisher behind the thread (the pointed hook part of the whip finisher.) **The thread should actually be able to hang freely inside** with your tag hand pull the thread over the portion that looks like the bobby pin end. ( I always hope this works for me ) Now… hold the whip finisher loosely and pull your hand directly towards you and up creating the look of a 4 rotated to the right three times. Holding the bobbin in the tag hand parallel to the shank of the hook and holding the whip finisher in the bobbin hand wind the finisher away from you while keeping the wraps snug. Wrap away from you three times and taaa-daaa!! you created the whip finish... Undo the single wrap that is around the bobby pin end of the whip finisher while still holding the hook part with the thread, pull the bobbin that is in the tag hand directly back from the shank and tighten the loop releasing the whip finisher once it’s in contact to the head of the fly. Cut the thread close to the head of the fly and you’re done!! 9. The finished fly: should look similar to this. (Keeping in mind I used an oversized hook, orange thread and made the head bigger than it should have been for teaching reasons. Proportions we will discuss later after we get the feel for everything.. ​​Remember to practice, practice, practice, because we don't become amazing tiers in one fly don't worry if it unwraps, cut your thread and start again by mounting another hook. As I add more to this library we can cover other techniques and required skills again such as proportions. In step 1. Mounting your hook, I mention down eye, up eye and straight eye. The reason for the eyes of the hook to be offset is to create a different action of movement below the water's surface and/or on top of the water's surface. Right now our focus is tying not the action of the fly in the water.. that will come as we advance as tiers. =) In step 3. I mention that if you ever see your bobbin resting front side of the hook, that you may have wrapped your thread the wrong way. This can cause your fly to fall apart if you originally started wrapping away from you... when I teach I will always encourage to wrap away from yourself. Although there is an occasional time we wrap toward us and I'll be sure to tell you when and where to use that style of wrapping. Hmmm so much reading for you and writing for me I think I'll end here. So chin up and keep up the great work, tie as often as you can and come out to the club. We'd love to help and watch what you can do! I will always be happy to help and answer your questions to the best of my ability. Or you can contact me at http://members@nlft.org Don't hesitate to message me any questions you have. There is no such thing as a stupid question. As I have learned they are all good! oh oh oh!! before I go... I'll tell you a secret want to know what it is??? .... I'm still learning new things about fly tying. And I still practice as much as I can, oh and another thing "so what if my fly doesn't look like it was bought in a store, or if it looks like that old dude who's been tying like foorrrrrrr evvvvverrrrrrrr wanna know why cause I tied it and I like the way I tie. ​Just like the way you should like your tying.. No ones flies are better than anyone else's and if they say that they are welllllll that's a whole other lesson I hope we don't have to learn together. ​Keep tying and watch for our next post in the next month or so!
  9. I'll ship my kids to BC and I'll head out presuming I can follow someone out in my truck ... I'm totally in.
  10. Welcome my friend I'm glad to have you on board!
  11. Kristi

    Hey All!

    Welcome!!
  12. Kristi

    Resources

    ​I thought I'd share excellent resources for information on all levels of tying. ​Northern Lights Fly Fishers hosts free drop-in meetings on a weekly basis. ​Our Address is Queen Mary Park Community League 10844 - 117th Street. We have meetings every Wednesday and there is always someone tying and extra vises to use. We are happy to sit and help and answer your questions. Bring a mug and enjoy a hot chocolate, tea or coffee and a Timbit while you learn. ​The club also has the BIGGEST library in the organization of Trout Unlimited Canada. We offer books and DVD's to sign out. This library also holds children's books which take you on an adventure with Olive the Woolly Bugger and her friends, on how to get started in fly tying to beautiful salmon flies for advance tiers. Our Library covers just about anything you're looking for when it comes to the art and sport of fly fishing. ​We have a YouTube channel that you can follow and just about every fly the club has tied is in video ​ If you know someone who ties they are also a great source of information. Ask if they are willing to help. Betcha they'd be more than happy to! I am sure I have forgotten lots of other resources and as I think of them I can post them. =)
  13. ​Materials can come from almost anything, so there is a lot of choice out there. It can be very confusing to the beginner, even to one who has been doing this for a long time. Today I will review the BASIC Materials you need to get started to tie a Woolly Bugger. Thread (s) – are a fine strand of material of any color, mostly made of nylon, may or may not be waxed, although this fiber can be anything that can strongly secure a material to the hook with enough tension that it won’t break. ** did you know that the thread is both a material and a tool when it comes to tying?? Material to create insect bodies and a tool to hold our materials to the hook. Three major thread thicknesses for the beginner when starting off are from largest thickness to smallest thickness listed below: · 3/0 great to begin with on bigger hooks · 6/0 commonly used on most trout flies · 8/0 for finer more detailed flies that you don’t want bulk on Hook (s) – vary in size, style and what they are used for and can be very confusing as well... A size #4 is greater in size than a size #24, so a rule of thumb is: the greater the number, the smaller the hook!!! There are six main parts to the hook. This is important to know when we start tying as some measurements are made from the hook itself thus creating the right length of material we need. The six parts are as listed below: · Eye – is where we thread the tippet through and around to attach the hook to our fly line. In less words it is the hole at one end of the hook · Shank – is the longest, straightest part of the hook. Its still called a shank even if there is soft curve in it. · Bend – is not to be confused with the soft curve of the shank but the sharp bend at the opposite end of the eye of the hook, creating the look of a j when you hold the eye of the hook to the sky · Barb - the point that sticks out just before the point of the hook · Point/Tip – is the point of the hook and its sharp so be careful Last but not least we have the · Gap – is the space that is created between the tip of the hook and the shank of the hook Feathers - ​​come from all sorts of birds and any part of their body. There are many different names to these feathers. They can imitate different parts of the particular insect you are tying ** did you know that having certain feathers in your in collection could be illegal as some birds are on the endangered species list.. always check before you buy ​Stringy, Shiny, Sparkly, Fuzzy and Flashy stuff - ​I know it's descriptive. But when you see what I'm talking about you will know exactly what I mean. These materials consist of fuzzy chenille, shiny chenille, tinsel, and tinsel like items. All this pretty stuff comes in an array of colors, lengths and in many forms. Head cement, Topcoats or Finishings - generally finish the fly and give it extra durability, prevent your fly from falling apart or simulate something that the fly naturally has like a soft shell backing. The above outline is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to materials. As we continue on, I am positive you will familiarize yourself with these materials, products and other tools. Stay tuned for how to tie a Woolly Bugger. *** If you have any questions you can direct them to myself or any of the other executive of NLFF by creating an account.
  14. ... and we usually end up using four main styles of fly to catch different kinds of fish. They are the dry fly, nymph, wet fly and streamer. Each fly has its own special abilities and reasons for being used. These flies can either imitate food sources or attract and bring interest of fish to your fly. So again in different words imitators are flies that imitate the particular bug or insect that the fish are eating like, a blood sucker (which we also call a leech). And attractors are flies that get the attention of fish and often don't look like anything specific, who are curious but unwilling to bite and bring them out of hiding.These type of flies don't look like anything specific. The Dry Fly - imitates insects and bugs that are usually stuck on the water surface and generally float. The Nymph - sinks to the bottom but imitates the baby stages of insect life The Wet Fly - imitates adult insects that live under the water and or insects that are about to drown. They are wet flies cause they got wet The Streamer - imitates tiny fish, the streamer sinks to just underneath the surface of the water and can be used in lakes streams and rivers.
  15. Did you know.... ... when we tie a fly we are imitating an insect or food like-item for the fish we are going to catch. These fish can live in all sorts of water like lakes, rivers and streams. The flies we tie can imitate pretty much any bug or minnow. Flies can be tied in many styles and for different reasons. Wet fly's, Dry fly's and Streamers are just a few types of the many flies we can tie. We make these flies with lots of different items like: feathers from all sorts of birds, chenille which is stringy stuff that can be fuzzy or shiny like tinsel, fur, wire, beads, glue, but most importantly thread. Without the thread our flies would fall apart OH!!!!..... I can't forget the most magical ingredients are: to be creative, have patience, and most of all have FUN while you practice. Did you also know.... ... fly tying was first recorded way back in history before our time, before our parents' time, even before our grand parents' time ... sooooo faaaar back that I can't even count that far back! I'm like talking way back to Ancient Rome. Do you know any one that lived that far back?
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